BrioCooks

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         If you have never had an olive oil cake you must give this recipe a try.  Olive oil cakes, common in Italian baking, are rich and moist and have a wonderful texture.

          As is true for many dishes the success of this cake depends upon the quality of the ingredients as much as careful measurement and proper technique.   Please use a good quality, lightly-flavored extra virgin olive oil instead of your everyday oil.  I use Tiburtini organic extra virgin olive oil, which has a light, almost buttery flavor with a hint of pepper.

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients
The cake:
3/4 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
1 cup sugar
2 eggs, room temperature
1 1/2 cups flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 1/2 cups small diced Granny Smith apple, cored but not peeled
1/4 cup chopped toasted walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 teaspoon Chartreuse or Calvadoes
olive oil for preparing the pan
flour for preparing the pan

The brown sugar glaze:
1/2 cup butter
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup heavy cream

Equipment needed
standing or hand mixer
10 inch bundt pan
pastry brush
whisk
small saucepan

Method
This recipe is easiest to prepare with a standing mixer.  If you do not have one just be prepared to thoroughly mix the ingredients and get a bit of a work out!
1. Preheat the oven to 325°.
2. Prepare the bundt pan by lightly oiling and flouring it, knocking out any excess flour.
3. Sift together the flour, baking soda, salt, nutmeg, and cinnamon.
4. Place the olive oil and sugar into the bowl of the mixer and mix on medium until well-mixed, about 5 minutes.  Add eggs, one at a time, mixing well, for at least 3 minutes, after each egg.
5. With the mixer running on low speed slowly add the flour mixture, mixing well after each addition.  Remove the bowl from the mixer.  With a spatula fold in the diced apple, the vanilla, the Chartreuse, and the walnuts.
6. Spoon the batter into the prepared pan.  The pan should not be more than 3/4 full.  Bake for 1 hour or until a pick inserted into the cake comes out clean.
7. Place the pan on a rack to cool for at least 1 hour.  While the cake is cooling, prepare the brown sugar glaze.
8. Melt the butter and sugar together in a small saucepan.  Add the cream and whisk over medium-low heat until the mixture is emulsified.  Remove from the heat and cool in the refrigerator, whisking occasionally, until thickened.

Presentation
When the cake is completely cooled, gently turn it onto the rack.  Set the rack on a larger pan or board and drizzle glaze over the top, side, and center of the cake.  Let the glaze set for at least 1/2 hour.  Carefully move the cake from the rack to a serving platter.  Decorate with edible flowers.

       Summer may be waning, but we can console ourselves with the wonderful tomatoes of all varieties that are in our farmer’s markets.  For this dish use the freshest local tomatoes, the best quality extra virgin olive oil you can afford, and crusty Italian bread.  Serve this as a side dish or scooped over fresh pasta, sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan, for a delicious, one-dish meal.  If you like, you can add a bit of spice with red pepper flakes.  Careful, though–this dish is all about the tomatoes!

Tip: Store tomatoes in a dry, cool place stem-side down.  Do not store tomatoes in the refrigerator.  They will lose their flavor.

Serves 4

Ingredients:
1/2 pound crusty Italian bread, torn into pieces
1 cup good quality extra virgin olive oil
3 garlic cloves, peeled, halved, and cut into slivers
4 large, ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped, juices reserved
2 thin slices very sweet onion, such as Maui or Vidalia
handful of Italian parsley, chopped
8 to 10 fresh basil leaves, shredded
salt, freshly ground black pepper
red pepper flakes (optional)

Method:
1.  Heat olive oil and garlic slivers in a small saucepan over low heat until the garlic begins to color.  Watch carefully, so that garlic does not burn or become dark.  Take saucepan off the heat and let the oil cool to room temperature.
2.  Place bread pieces on a flat baking sheet and heat in a 350° oven for 5 minutes.  Remove the bread and place in a large bowl.  Add tomatoes, their juices, the olive oil with the garlic slivers, onion, parsley, and basil.  Season with salt and pepper.  Add red pepper flakes sparingly, if desired.  Cover and let stand for at least one hour.

     This dish is also delicious the next day!  Stir carefully, but well, and serve.

Fresh figs are now available from mid-May until September.  When the weather begins to warm, fresh fruit for dessert seems most appropriate.

Fig trees originated in Asia Minor and spread throughout the Mediterranean in prehistoric times.  The cultivation of figs likely began between 4000 and 2700 B.C. in Egypt and the Arabian peninsula.  By Roman times, the common fig we eat today was being cultivated.  The “mission fig” commonly eaten in the United States was first grown by the Franciscans at the San Diego Mission.  Botanically, the fig is not a single fruit, but rather constitutes over 1000 tiny fruits, which we recognize as the seeds.

Figs do not ripen after they are picked.  Look for fruit that is dry to the touch and feels heavy for its size.  Figs will stay only a few days in your refrigerator, so enjoy them right away.  This recipe is an adaptation of a traditional Italian dessert.  Enjoy!

Makes 4 servings

Ingredients:
1 lemon                                                 1 1/4 cups Marsala wine
1/4 cup sugar                                        2 cinnamon sticks
2 whole star anise                                  1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon ground cardamom                1 pound fresh black mission figs
1/2 cup crème fraîche (with additional sugar to taste)

Method:
1.  Wash the lemon thoroughly.  Using a sharp knife or peeler take off strips of the peel, being careful to remove any white pith.
2.  In a small saucepan combine the lemon peel, Marsala wine, sugar, cinnamon sticks, star anise, peppercorns, and cardamom.  Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and simmer for 5 minutes.  Remove from the heat and let the mixture sit for an hour or cover and refrigerate overnight.
3.   When you are ready to poach the figs, strain the mixture into a skillet or shallow saucepan.  Bring to a simmer.  Remove the stems, if any, from the figs. Cut the figs in half lengthwise and place cut-side down in the poaching liquid. Simmer for 3 to 5 minutes.  Gently turn fig halves over and poach for another minute.  Remove figs. Raise the heat and simmer poaching liquid until it is thicker and syrupy, about 5 minutes.  Remove from heat.
4.  To serve: Whisk the desired amount of sugar into the crème fraîche.  Serve the figs in shallow bowls with some of the poaching liquid, topped with a small dollop of crème fraîche.  Garnish with a sprig of fresh mint.

     Create your own fine dining experience at home with this sublime pasta main course.  A light pink cream sauce with flecks of fresh rosemary naps fresh fettuccine and tender slices of shiitake mushroom.  Perfect for a Valentine’s Day candlelight dinner.

Serves 2

Ingredients
8 ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms                         1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 1/4 cup heavy cream                                          2 sprigs fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons unsalted butter                                 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 medium onion, finely chopped                          1 garlic clove, minced
2 tomatoes                                                            1/2 pound fresh fettuccine
1/2 cup fresh Parmesan cheese, grated
salt and white pepper to taste
2 small pieces of fresh rosemary for garnish

Method:
1.  Preheat the oven to 170°.  Place two large soup or pasta bowls in the oven to warm.
2.  Wipe mushrooms with a paper towel, remove the stems, and slice them thickly.  In a small bowl toss them with the lemon juice and set aside.
3.  To peel the tomatoes, bring a medium saucepan filled with water to the boil.  Fill another bowl with some ice and water. Cut a shallow cross in the blossom end (not the stem end) end.  Drop the tomatoes in the boiling water for 30 seconds and remove to the ice water.  Peel the tomatoes.  Slice the tomatoes in half, remove the seeds, and chop.  Set the tomatoes aside.
4.  Pluck the leaves from the rosemary and finely chop.  In a saucepan combine the cream and the rosemary.  Season with a pinch of salt.  Bring to the simmer over low heat and cook gently for 15 minutes.
5.  While the cream is cooking heat the butter and oil in a skillet over medium high heat.  Saute the onion for 5 minutes or until soft.  Do not let it brown.  Add the minced garlic and cook for 1 minute.  Stir in the mushrooms and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the mushrooms are softened.  Season the mushrooms with a little salt and white pepper.
6.  Add the chopped tomatoes and the mushrooms to the rosemary cream and leave on low heat.
7.  Cook the fettuccine in boiling salted water for approximately 1 minute and drain.  Divide the pasta between the warmed bowls.  Ladle over the mushroom, tomato, and rosemary cream sauce.  Sprinkle over half of the Parmesan cheese.  Garnish with additional rosemary sprig. 
Enjoy!

     Romance your valentine at brunch with this scrumptious, make-ahead dish.  Start your celebration by placing a fresh raspberry in two flute glasses and fill half way with sparkling wine or Champagne.  Put out bite-sized wedges of room temperature Brie to enjoy while you finish the dish.

Serves 2

Ingredients:
2 medium eggs                                    2 tablespoons peach preserves
1/2 cup cream                                     1/4 cup peach preserves
1/4 cup unsalted butter                        2 fresh peaches, peeled and sliced
1/4 cup toasted almonds                      2 cups fresh raspberries
4 3/4 inch slices brioche or French bread

Method:
1.  In a small bowl beat together the eggs and 2 tablespoons peach preserves.  Beat in the cream.
2.  Lay the bread slices in one layer in a 8″ x 8″ baking dish.  Pour the egg mixture over the bread slices.  Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or overnight.  The bread should absorb the egg mixture.
3.  In a small bowl beat together 2 tablespoons of butter and the 1/4 cup of peach preserves with an electric mixer until the mixture is light and fluffy.  Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you are ready to serve.
4.  When you are ready to serve, rinse the raspberries carefully and lay them to dry on a piece of paper towel.  Preheat the oven to 170° and put in two large plates to warm.
5.  Melt the remaining butter in a large non-stick skillet over medium heat.  Add the bread slices and cook until browned.  Turn the slices and brown the other side.
6.  Serve the French toast on the warmed plates topped with the peach slices, the peach preserve butter, the toasted almonds.  Sprinkle on the fresh raspberries.

Here is a sample of the dishes I’m cooking now:

♦    Winter Squash  Risotto Gratin with Cannellini and Green Bean Salad in Tarragon Vinaigrette
♦     Indonesian Curried Vegetable Stew with Jasmine Rice Pilaf
♦     Red Chile Chickpea Cakes with Lemon Yogurt Sauce and Couscous with Fresh Herbs
♦     Ratatouille Niçoise with Saffron Rice Pilaf with Dried Cherries and Pine Nuts
♦     Winter Vegetable Crustless Quiche
♦     Roasted Vegetable Tortilla Lasagna with Corn and Black Bean Salad
♦     Penne, Fontina, and Vegetable Gratin

    Because this recipe uses canned beans it is quick enough for a weekday supper.  Serve the soup in warmed soup bowls accompanied by a simple green salad dressed with vinaigrette.

Note on ingredients:
     Most often the success of a dish depends not on the recipe or the technique used to produce the dish, but on the quality of its ingredients.  For example, this recipe calls for freshly grated Parmesan.  Please do not use the canned variety.  Rather, buy a chunk of good quality Parmesan.  Grate half of it to keep in a tightly lidded jar in the refrigerator and wrap the remaining for times when you want to shave the Parmesan.
     If you have some homemade vegetable broth in your freezer (see November 21, 2010 post) all the better!  If not, use a good quality, unsalted organic vegetable broth.   
     You may omit the wine if you wish, but keep in mind the alcohol will cook off, leaving only the flavor of the wine.  Do not use a Chardonnay–its flavor is too pungent for this soup.
     Orzo is a rice-like pasta that is now widely available.

Serves 4

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons olive oil                                   4 carrots, scraped and sliced
1 medium onion, chopped                             2 19 ounce cans white beans
2 cloves garlic, minced                                  3 cups vegetable broth
2 ribs celery, sliced                                       1/2 cup dry white wine
2 bay leaves                                                 2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan
1/2 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled
1/4 cup orzo
salt and white pepper to taste

Method:
1.   Heat a medium saucepan over medium-low heat and add the oil.  When the oil is hot, saute the onion until softened, without browning.  Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.  Add the celery, bay leaves, and rosemary.  Cook for 5 minutes.  Add the carrots, the white wine, and a little salt and cook for 5 minutes.
2.   Rinse the beans in a colander.  Purée 2 cups of the beans with 1 cup of the broth in a blender.  Add the purée and the remaining broth to the vegetable mixture.  Simmer covered for 10 minutes.
3.   Stir in the remaining beans and orzo and simmer for 10 minutes or until the orzo is tender.
4.   Remove the soup from the heat.  Discard the bay leaves.  Stir in 1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan.   Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into warmed soup bowls.  Pass the remaining Parmesan at the table.

     When you gather the all the ingredients before you begin to cook, this fragrant stew can be quickly assembled and requires little attention while it simmers.  Serve the stew in warmed soup bowls, accompanied by jasmine rice and a simple green salad.  The stew tastes wonderful the next day and freezes well.  Enjoy!

Serves 4

Ingredients:
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 walnut-sized piece of fresh ginger, peeled, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped
3 1/2 cups water
3 teaspoons curry powder
1 1/2 teaspoons tumeric
1 teaspoon cumin
1 cup red lentils, rinsed, broken pieces removed
3 medium carrots, peeled, cut into 1/2 inch pieces
6 cups spinach leaves, roughly chopped
1 cup frozen peas
1/2 cup cilantro, chopped (fresh parsley may be substitued if you don’t care for the taste of cilantro)
1 medium potato, peeled and diced
1/4 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/4 teaspoons dried red pepper flakes

Method:
1.  In a large saucepan over medium-high heat, saute the onion in 4 tablespoons oil with a pinch of salt. 
2.  In a blender, puree the ginger, garlic, and 1/2 cup water to make a paste.  Add the paste to the onions, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook for 5 minutes.  Add the curry powder, tumeric, and cumin and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.  Stir in the lentils and remaining 3 cups of water.  Simmer, covered, for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally.
3.  Add the carrots and potatoes and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until carrots and potatoes are tender.
4.  Remove the cover and add spinach and peas and simmer uncovered for 3 to 4 minutes.  Stir in cilantro or parsley.
5.  Before serving, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small saucepan or skillet.  Saute the cumin seeds and red pepper flakes for a minute or until fragrant.  Pour the hot spiced oil over the stew and stir gently.

    In this Hanukkah menu traditional dishes accompany savory phyllo tarts  with a savory cumin-scented filling of tomatoes, diced eggplant, and chickpeas.  

The Menu:
     Marcona Almonds served with flutes of Champagne or Sparkling Cider
     Mixed Greens with Shaved Fennel garnished with Shredded Carrots and dressed with Pomegranate Molasses Vinaigrette
     Eggplant, Chickpea, and Tomato Tarts 
     Potato Latkes with Spiced Apple and Fresh Thyme Compote
     Roasted Whole Green Beans with Toasted Hazelnuts
     Plum Upside Down Cake with Cognac Chantilly Cream

Today’s Recipe from the Hanukkah Menu

Plum Upside-Down Cake with Cognac Chantilly Cream

Serves 6 to 8
Ingredients:
for the batter:
1 cup all purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
3 large eggs
1 stick unsalted butter
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
4 ounces almond paste
pinch of salt

for topping:
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup light brown sugar
30 plums in syrup, drained, halved, pitted, and patted dry

Cognac chantilly cream:
1 cup very cold heavy whipping cream
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon Cognac

Method:
1.  Preheat oven to 350°.  Sift flour, baking powder, and salt together.  In a mixing bowl blend almond paste and sugar until well combined.  Add butter and blend until smooth.  Adding eggs one at a time, blend well after each addition.  Using a spatula stir in flour mixture until just combined.
2.  In a well seasoned 10 inch heavy, oven-proof skillet, melt butter over medium heat until butter foams.  Reduce the heat to low and sprinkle brown sugar evenly over butter.  Heat without stirring for 3 minutes (not all the sugar will dissolve).
3.  Remove the skillet from the heat.  Arrange plum halves, cut side up, in a decorative pattern over the sugar.  Spoon the batter over the plums, spreading evenly and gently so as not to disturb your plum pattern.  Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until golden brown.
4.  While the cake is baking whip the cream in a cold bowl at high speed.  When the cream begins to thicken add the sugar and Cognac and continue to whip until peaks form.  Set aside in the refrigerator.
5.  Cool cake on a rack for 5 minutes.  Invert a plate or serving platter over the skillet and invert the cake onto the plate.   Serve warm with Cognac Chantilly Cream on the side.

     Make ahead note for Cognac Chantilly Cream:  There is no need to be whipping the cream while your guests are waiting for dessert.  Whipped cream may be held for several hours in a strainer lined with cheesecloth set over a bowl in the refrigerator.

Also from the menu:

Eggplant, Chickpea, and Tomato Tart
     (adapted from Gourmet, November 2005)
     Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 1 pound eggplant, peeled, diced into 1/2 inch cubes
1 medium onion, halved lengthwise, sliced thinly
1 14 ounce can stewed tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with juice
1 15 ounce can chickpeas, rinsed, drained
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
1/8 teaspoon cumin
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/4 cup fresh parsely, chopped
4 sprigs fresh parsley for garnish
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
6 17 by 12 inch phyllo sheets, thawed if frozen
salt, freshly ground black pepper

Method:
1.  Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy skillet over moderately high heat.  Saute the onion with the bay leaf, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 5 minutes.  Add 1 tablespoon oil, the eggplant, and the garlic and cook, stirring until eggplant is cooked and tender, about 8 minutes.
2.  Add tomatoes, their juice, smoked paprika, cumin and cook, stirring 3 to 5 minutes.  Add chickpeas, sugar, some freshly ground black pepper, and salt to taste.  Simmer, partially, covered, until slightly thickened.   Remove from heat.  Discard the bay leaf and stir in the chopped parsley.
3.  Preheat the oven to 425°.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.  Unroll the phyllo and cover with a damp dish towel.  Keeping the phyllo coverd as you work, brush one sheet with remaining oil and top with two more sheets, brushing each with oil.  Grind a little fresh black pepper over the phyllo.  Cut the stack in half crosswise.
4.  Place 1 cup of filling into the center of each half.  Roll up the egdes of the phyllo toward the filling, leaving the filling exposed.  Transfer to the baking sheet using a spatula.  Make 2 more tarts in the same way and place on the baking sheet.  Brush a little oil on the phyllo rims of the tarts.
5.  Bake until the edges of the tarts are golden, about 15 to 20 minutes.  Garnish each tart with a sprig of parsley.

     Note on making ahead:  The tarts may be baked ahead of time and kept, covered with a dish towel, in a cool place and reheated in a 300° oven.  They do not keep overnight.

Makes 18 hors d’oeuvre cheesecakes.

Ingredients:
1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs                   
1/2 cup finely ground walnuts
4 ounces cream cheese, softened                  
5 ounces blue cheese
1 tablespoon melted unsalted butter              
1 large egg, beaten
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, very finely chopped, almost to a powder
salt, white pepper to taste
9 red grapes, halved

Equipment needed:
mini-muffin pan with 18 1/8 cup cups (approximately 3/4 inches deep and 1 3/4 inches across)
electric mixer

Method:
1.  Preheat the oven to 350°.  Butter cups of mini-muffin pan.
2.  In a mixing bowl, combine the bread crumbs, ground walnuts, and butter.  Season with salt and pepper.  Divide mixture among the 18 cups, pressing down to form a little base in each.
3.  Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese until fluffy.  Add the blue cheese and beat until combined well.   Add the egg and beat again until combined well.   Add the finely chopped rosemary and season with a little salt and pepper.  Divide the blue cheese mixture among the cups, smoothing the tops of each.
4.  Bake for 15 minutes.  Let the cheesecakes cool in the pan set on a rack for 5 minutes.  Carefully unmold.  Place a grape half on each cheesecake and garnish with a chive.  Serve warm or at room temperture.